What is NATURAL hoof care?
There are several schools of thought throughout the world today promoting
natural hoof care for domestic horses. Some claim specific hoof wall and
hairline angles are necessary, other say naturalness is attained with
special horseshoes; they can all vary to extensive degrees. But, true
Natural Hoof Care for domestic horses uses the wild mustang foot as its
model and understand horse's hooves can be as different as people's feet.
The wild mustang hoof has no human intervention and therefore can, without
reservation, be called the truth; the way the horse's foot is supposed to
be. domestic horses and wild horses are not genetically different; all are
anatomically, physiologically and psychologically the same. Natural hoof
care is a process and is not intended as a one-time trim or quick fix to
hoof problems.
Why should I take the shoes off my horse?
Horseshoes damage your horse's feet. Any reputable Farrier Manual or Text
will tell you to keep the shoes off your horse as much as you can. Most
people de-shoe their horses in winter to let the feet heal and recuperate.
Natural hoof care takes it a step further and lets the hoof continue its
healing process year-round, to let the horse grow the feet Nature intended
it to have. Loss of shock absorption, contracted hells, reduced blood flow,
bacterial and fungal invasion, digital cushion atrophy, etc...are a few of
the hoof pathologies directly attributable to horseshoes.
My horse has very thin, brittle hoof wall; doesn't it need shoes?
The membranes inside the hoof capsule, known as the Coriums, that produce
all the parts of the hoof that we see (hoof wall, sole, frog, white line and
periople) make up a single living entity who's only function is the survival
of the hoof. These Coriums receive feedback from the hoof's environment and
produce hoof as necessary to ensure the health of the foot. When a shoe is
attached to the hoof, this feedback is greatly diminished and the Coriums
are driving blind. They can sense hoof wall length however, and when the
hoof is left long in the quarters to support a shoe, the Coriums will
produce hoof wall that will chip and break in an effort to shorten the hoof
wall. Your horse does not need shoes because it has thin, brittle hoof
wall; it has thin, brittle hoof wall because it has shoes. As your horse
goes through the rehabilitation or transition period, the hoof will grow in
thick and hard.
If I take the shoes off my horse his feet always crack and chip!
Chips most usually occur in the quarters but can happen anywhere around the
hoof wall, the same with cracks. Tensile stresses on the hoof wall
extending below the sole while bearing the horse's weight, constantly apply
a spreading force to the tubules that make up the hoof wall. This will
start cracks that will widen and run up the hoof as long as the force is
applied. A good natural trim keeps the hoof wall no more than 1/16" longer
than the sole and the bevel with Mustang Roll contribute to compressive
forces on the hoof wall, squeezing everything together. A good strong
Mustang Roll may take a few trims to achieve.
I drive my horse on pavement quite a bit; won't I wear its feet off?
Wild mustangs in North Central Nevada live and move up to twenty hours a day
on volcanic rock tough enough to rasp wood. Their feet are conditioned from
birth for that environment. The key word is "conditioned;" the Coriums must
have time to respond to the feedback received. I know of carriage horses in
Georgia and South Carolina that work barefoot on pavement every day, but
their feet required gradual conditioning to give the Coriums time to produce
the hoof wall required. With the correct attention to conditioning and hoof
wall maintenance by trimming, any barefoot horse can spend its days working
on any surface without harm.
Don't we need the extra support shoes give for the added weight of a rider?
Wild mustang mares travel twenty to thirty miles every day, pregnant, over
terrain we could not conceive of living in. It's a considerable etra
burden, taxing their skeletal, muscular, and internal organ structures far
more than anything a domestic horse is ever asked to do. And they do it
barefoot without any adverse effects to themselves or their foals.
Furthermore, a horseshoe greatly reduces the natural shock absorption
capabilities of the hoof and transfers shock up the bony column to other
joints, tendons and ligaments and bones. Horseshoes cause atrophy of
internal hoof support structure and hinder the natural movement of the hoof.
How does the trimming involved in natural hoof care differ from a pasture
trim?
Pasture trims, for the most part, consist of trimming the excess hoof wall
as would normally be done, rasping the hoof wall flat then sometimes
beveling the outer edge of the hoof wall to minimize chipping. On the other
hand, a wild mustang's hoof is a marvel of Mother Nature's engineering; it's
the hoof all horses are born with and meant to have. The sole is concaved,
smooth and calloused. The frog is wide, flat, follows up the concavity of
the sole and tough as boot leather. The hoof wall is considerably shorter
than most people are used to seeing with a very significantly rounded edge
known as the "Mustang Roll" and the hoof wall extends no lower than the
sole. In this foot, the hoof wall, sole and frog all play a part in the
support of the horse's weight. Natural Hoof Care trimmers only compensate
for the wear that domestic horses are not able to get with their relatively
sedentary lifestyles. When trimming hoof wall, the sole is followed and the
hoof wall is not normally left any longer than the sole. Bars are taken
down to the level of the sole to follow the concavity of the foot and the
frog is trimmed only enough to ensure passive support and frog health. The
outer portion of the hoof wall is beveled much more than a pasture trim; all
irregularities in hoof wall thickness are addressed, flaring is removed and
the "Mustang Roll" is applied. It's a much more detailed kind of trim in an
attempt to match what Nature does to the hoof in the wild.
If I take the shoes off my horse, won't it be tender and "Ouchy?"
There is a period after de-shoeing a horse, known as "transition" or
"rehabilitation," where it will have tender feet due to atrophy, blood
circulation, de-contraction and tissue regeneration. Basically, the horse
must repair all the damage done by shoeing. This transition period can last
from a few weeks to several months, depending on the length of time the
horse has been shod and the amount of damage done by the shoes. The sooner
the horse's lifeway is naturalized the better. The diet, exercise regimen,
starting condition, expectations and socialization practice all affect this
time period. Booting your horse is the one way to help your horse through
it. When required to work, putting good quality hoof boots on your horse
will alleviate much of the pain associated with movement until full time
bare-footedness can be achieved. The rehabilitation or transition period
will require more patience and dedication from the horse owner than the
horse. This period can only be measured in miles, not time; movement is the
key.
My horse has been barefoot for a long time, will his hooves go through
transition?
Due to dead sole, long bars and compacted material which may have been left
in the hoof during previous trims, horses already barefoot can experience
transition because of increased hoof flexibility. Unnatural trimming that
leaves this material behind can cause the effects of horseshoeing, casting
the hoof and causing insensitivity. After initiating natural hoof care and
trimming the hooves to emulate the natural model, a transition or
rehabilitation period may occur.
What's the best environment for my horse's feet?
The horse's foot is meant to work and work hard! Natural horses are
nomadic, social animals instinctively moving most of the day over very rough
ground to obtain food and water. We can only attempt to do the best that
domestication will allow; provide a dry lot that is hard-packed with lots of
rocks or gravel (lush grassy paddocks are not doing your horse any favors),
feed on the ground in several piles, water should be available 24/7. Ensure
it exercises regularly and as much as possible, making it sweat is not
mistreatment. As much as possible, let them be horses; socialization is
very important, playing and fighting are necessary for their psychological
well-being. If there is plenty of room, put your horse in with as many
other horses, as often as you can.
My horse has "Laminitis;" doesn't he need shoes to stop Coffin Bone
rotation?
Laminitis is always the result of toxicity! The horse has ingested
something that produced non-normal bacteria in the hindgut and sent the
production of enzymes affecting hoof growth out of control. The symptoms of
laminitis that we see are the result of the horse trying to correct the
situation. Coffin Bone "rotation:" that phrase almost always associated
with a death sentence is in fact a natural response to a very unnatural
condition. First and foremost, the trigger initiating the attach must be
eliminated; the horse's diet must be naturalized. All legumes (alfalfa) and
sweet or processed feeds must be removed. The horse should receive nothing
but grass hay, preferably mixed grasses, fresh water and a salt and mineral
block. Exercise now is very important. The hoof mechanism that works to
help move clean, rejuvenating blood through the foot must function. This
can't happen while standing around in a stall and its ability is greatly
reduced by nailiing a horseshoe to the foot. Laminitis is painful. To help
the horse mentally it should be able to associate with its buuddies, don't
lock it up in a stall all by itself. Trimming could be the least
significant aspect of dealing with laminitis, the horse is going to do most
of the work. We're going to trim the horse as we would any other; either
you do a natural trim or you don't. We'll remove excess hoof growth,
maintaining the healing angle of the toe wall as it leaves the hairline and
minimize any divergent toe angle without invading the white line. Then
watch as the horse grows a new, beautiful, straight hoof.
My horse was diagnosed with Navicular Disease; doesn't it need long heels
and wedges or pads under its shoes?
"Navicular" is a very nebulous term; you'll normally get a different answer
from anyone you ask. However, new research by Dr. Robert Bowker, D.V.M. at
the University of Michigan has shown that the most contributing factor to
this problem is a fatty, atrophied digital cushion which causes a toe-first
landing and prevents re-development of the digital cushion...it's a vicious
circle. The horse must regain the ability to land flat-footed, putting
passive pressure on the frog and redeveloping fibro-cartilage in the digital
cushion. This can be done with natural trimming, reading the landmarks that
the foot will provide as its shape and mass change. It's a gradual process
that can take time, but is vastly superior to masking the symptoms with
shoes and pads only to get another couple of years of productivity out of
your horse.
You hear a lot about Natural Training and Natural Horse Care these days.
How does Natural Hoof Care fit in with these methods?
Natural Hoof Care is one small but important aspect of Natural Horse Care.
providing holistic lifeway changes as necessary for your horse is the most
important part of naturalizing your horse's life. The horse's diet should
be as simplified as possible: grass hay, varied in content with as many
mixes of grass as are available (avoid Alfalfa, Clover and rich spring or
fall grass), water always available and a salt and mineral block is all your
horse really needs to fuel that magnificent, powerful body under all
conditions; the wild ones prove this. By feeding rich/sweet feeds such as
Alfalfa, you are setting your horse up for potential problems such as
laminitis or founder. Your horse needs as much exercise as possible. 24/7
turnout is best, but any on a daily basis is better than none. It needs to
socialize. your horse should always be with, or at least where it can touch
other horses. Because our domestic horses cannot move nearly as much as
they need, regular natural trimming, anywhere from four to eight weeks is
vital to keeping their feet healthy. If your horse looks like it needs a
trim, it's past due.